Another challenge was creating the unusual hat design, as it is just a concept of illustration, so I don’t have any reference images to compare with to check.

First of all, I used water-based hat stiffener to make the felt harder, then using steamer to shape the hat on the right size hat block by using household pins.

Meanwhile, I was mocking up hat shape by using card paper to get the right height and size. Using my knowledge of millinery from second year, I started with the bottom layer of the hat design by using my model’s head measurement and slashed into 8 section to create the curve from top to bottom.

Once the bottom layer was correct, I started to build up layer above, which reduce two panel for the size, and same method for the rest of layers. When the shape is correct, then I started transferring the hat pattern for each of layer into normal pattern drafting paper.

One is to clear the edge, another is making the pattern symmetrical. Once cleaned up for all patterns of each layer, then I transferred them to buckram by using maker pen.

Following my interest in exploring the relation between the East and the West through costume, I chose to create costume design by Walter Plunkett for Chinese-American actress Anna May Wong in Sherlock mystery film, A study in scarlets 1933 my BATP exhibition project.

Original design by Walter Plunkett and my design for back dress

As this design never been made into real costume, and it only has front design, I did my personal interpretation for the back. After doing some research about modern oriental dresses that designed by western designers, or interpreted in western context, I had an idea for applying modern element as a low back cut with transparent fabric and embroidery on it for my back design. I know the look is not in same period, but I want to take the risk for creating a new way to present the design. Especially, when the originally design is based on western concept of ‘oriental’, which more tends to use imagination and the ideal of the East to create the costume.

I used traditional dragon pattern to fit in the shape of back design, to reflect the concept of ‘dragon lady’, which is perfect for Anna May Wong’s character. However, after testing out in hand embroidery, heat transfer and embroidery, combing the construction limits, this idea didn’t work. Through this process, I learned more about design principals as a designer, which is something I never experienced before as a maker.

Once I found the problem of my design, I started thinking in another way to interpret the design. I decided just go for creating the front look, and keep back simple as a zip opening. However, the challenge is about how to use most correct and efficient method to approach the design. I tried using tambour beading first, however, the time limits and techniques limits are not the best choice. After discussing with tutor, I found out that use lace cut out to create appliqué is the really effect way to create the design. This is a really new way for me to use lace, and I wasn’t really sure at the beginning, however, after doing some sourcing and researching, I started finding the right approach and correct lace for the decoration. Finally, the out come is looking really nice, and this is a very good skills to have in the future.