Hat making process for the Red Lady costume - Walter Plunkett & Anna May Wong

Another challenge was creating the unusual hat design, as it is just a concept of illustration, so I don’t have any reference images to compare with to check.

First of all, I used water-based hat stiffener to make the felt harder, then using steamer to shape the hat on the right size hat block by using household pins.

Meanwhile, I was mocking up hat shape by using card paper to get the right height and size. Using my knowledge of millinery from second year, I started with the bottom layer of the hat design by using my model’s head measurement and slashed into 8 section to create the curve from top to bottom.

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Once the bottom layer was correct, I started to build up layer above, which reduce two panel for the size, and same method for the rest of layers. When the shape is correct, then I started transferring the hat pattern for each of layer into normal pattern drafting paper.

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One is to clear the edge, another is making the pattern symmetrical. Once cleaned up for all patterns of each layer, then I transferred them to buckram by using maker pen.

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